My FAQ on Buying and Wearing Vintage Hats
The Amazing Jessica Cangiano in a hat and German Dirndl
I recently bought my first vintage hat, and now have a growing collection! Before I purchase too many more vintage hats, I wanted to ask my friend Jessica Cangiano, the stylish lady behind the blog Chronically Vintage http://www.chronicallyvintage.com/for her best tips on buying a vintage hat.
Do you think it is OK to mix decades when it comes to matching hats and clothes?
“I've always, steadfastly, been a big proponent of the belief that fashion is what each individual makes of it. While you may look at someone and think to yourself, "I'd never wear in a million years wear that outfit!", it might make the person wearing it incredibly happy, confident, and stylish to their mind and that's what matters. There's no right and wrong when it comes to fashion as whole, just what works for each of us.
I wear 1940s and 50s looks, and some of the clothes, hats and accessories in my wardrobe can work seamlessly for either decade, so in that respect I do sometimes even mix decades a bit myself.”
What are some qualities you look at when choosing a good vintage store or online shop?
“Due to the fact that I live in a relatively small town that has only one vintage store (which tends to lean heavily towards the 60s and 70s, as opposed to the 40s and 50s) that's only open part of the year, I tend to buy the vast majority of my vintage clothes and hats at online from Etsy first and foremost, followed by eBay.
Tip One: When vintage hat shopping online,
look for clear, detailed photos
When looking at vintage sellers and their hat listings on Etsy (and eBay), you have to take people at their word to a certain degree. Clear, detailed photos are often a great way to get a sense of a hat's quality and if you feel it really is from the period that the seller is claiming (I find that hats usually do hail from the decade the seller says, but you want to be careful, as I certainly have seen sellers - either unknowingly or not - list hats from the 80s and 90s as being from the 20s - 50s).
Tip Two: When shopping for vintage hats
on Etsy or Ebay look at the seller’s feedback
If I'm buying from a seller for the first time, I like to check out their feedback, see how much information they provide in their listing, and ask any and all questions I might have before buying. I live in Canada and usually have to pay much more than those in the US would to have a hat sent up here from an American seller, so it's very important to me that I feel confident with the hat I'm buying before I go through with a sale.
Tip Three: In a store, inspect before you buy
I've not yet had the great pleasure of visiting a store (I wonder if Canada has any still?) that just specifically sold vintage hats, but when shopping at vintage clothing stores in various parts of the country, I apply the same principles, always asking to try on the hat before I buy, too, and inspecting it with a proverbial fine tooth comb for any significant flaws, stains, etc that might be deal breakers.
Jessica Cangiano in a vintage hat
Where do you find good vintage hats? Do you have any secret places to shop or recommended sellers on the Internet?
Tip Four: Check out Jessica’s
secret hat shopping spots –
Salvation Army and garage sales
“A great vintage hat can spring up anywhere, and I constantly keep my eyes peeled for them wherever I may be. I've found a couple of wonderful 1950s hats at the Salvation Army thrift store here in town, as well as some (very occasionally) at local yard sales. I love these sources as they often are your best bet nowadays for amazing deals on quality vintage hats.
What are your tips on evaluating a vintage hat? What are some factors that make you decide not to purchase a hat?
Tip Five: You can ask
the seller for additional photos
before buying hats online
“When buying a vintage hat, I evaluate it much as I would other types of vintage clothing. I first make sure it's my size (or close enough so that it will fit - always veering, if need be, on the side of larger instead of smaller), then I study all available photos carefully, looking for any conditional issues that the seller might not have listed or may have accidentally overlooked. If need be, I don't hesitate to politely ask the seller for additional photos before buying.
Tip Five: Search the internet
for similar style vintage hats
to make sure the vintage hat you like
is not overpriced
I've been buying and looking at vintage hats for many years now, so I'd say that the largest factor when it comes to buying a hat or not is often price. Because I follow the vintage market very carefully and have a general sense of what most types of 1930s, 40s, 50s and 60s hats generally sell for (especially online), if I saw a hat I loved but thought it was massively overpriced, I'd be very hesitant to buy it. I'd first do an extensive online search for similar (or identical) hats and if I found one or more selling for less (assuming the seller was reputable), I'd opt for that one instead.
Do you have any resources for fixing or mending vintage hats?
Tip Six: Where to ask for help
fixing a vintage hat –
costume designers,
conservation experts, milliners
“To date - knock wood! - I've not had to do any serious mending to vintage hats I've purchased, but in general I would suggest that a person try to find a local milliner (which, I know, is not something every town has any more), bridal wear expert, costume designer (theater companies are a great place to turn for such folks), top-notch seamstress, conservation expert (check local museums and historical societies), or fellow vintage hat wearer with experience and knowledge on the subject, if you're looking to have a seriously damaged piece repaired.
Tip Seven: Clean a vintage hat
with a hairdryer or lint roller
When it comes to cleaning vintage hats, a couple of techniques I've had good success with are to use a hair dryer (on a cool/cold low setting) to whisk away the dust and debris that may have built up over the years (a fabric lint roller can work great in this regard, too, especially on sturdy felt and wool hats), spot washing (always do a trial spot washing check on the inside of the hat if you're concerned that water might damage the material of the outer hat) with water, and if needed, a small bit of baby shampoo (or shampoo for ultra sensitive skin). A gentle sponge, tooth brush, or plush wash cloth are all handy when using water (and soap, if applicable) on vintage hats. You'll want to ensure you only get your hat a tiny bit damp at a time and that you thoroughly dry it in a well ventilated area before wearing or storing it.
Tip Eight: Fix and reshape
a warped vintage hat with steam
If you've picked up a vintage hat and you feel like it's gotten a tad warped out of shape over the years, you can sometimes use a little bit of (gentle!) steam to help shape it again (use your best judgment when it comes to the materials the hat is made of and if they'll stand up to the heat and moisture of steam), or alternatively buy an inexpensive wig stand or Styrofoam prop head (sometimes found at craft stores) and gently shape the hat around that, letting it sit there for at least a few days to help mold itself to the desired head shape.”
What are your feelings about shopping at thrift versus vintage stores versus online?
Tip Nine: Measure your head
before buying vintage hats online
The main drawback is that, in almost all cases (excluding a local seller who might allow you to see their merchandise before buying), you can't try the hat on before you buy it. If you're new to wearing/buying vintage hats or are buying a style you haven't worn before, this can certainly be a negative side to online shopping. Generally speaking though, if the hat is listed as being your size (make sure you measure your head, with your hair in as natural a style as possible, before embarking on buying vintage hats), is in good shape, and you feel like it will look good on you, it probably will, so I see no reason to shun online hat shopping, even when it comes to the most novice of collectors.”
Jessica Cangiano in a vintage hat
Do you have any tips or links to vintage hat hairstyle tips or tutorials?
Tip Ten: Best hat hairstyles include
chignons, buns, rolls, bangs, pin curls.
Each era had its own distinct hair and hat styles, but (very) generally speaking, if you're going to be wearing a hat that covers all (or almost all) of the top (and possibly part of the sides) of your heads, you'll want to stick with styles that aren't overly voluminous (e.g., Betty Grable's iconic mass of curls on the top of her head) and which will still look good once you've removed your chapeau (if you're planning to that day, I mean).
Soft waves, curls on the lower portion of the hair, some types of bangs (or faux bags), rolls (worn on the forehead or at the nap of the neck), chignons, low set buns (at the back of the neck), braids, and even pigtails can all be great choices (just depending on your hair's length, type, and cur factor) for hat wearers.
When wearing a vintage hat that's going to cover most (or all) of the top of my head, I usually do a 40s or early 50s inspired (wet) pin or rag curl set the night before, brush it in the morning so that the volume is towards the ends and either pin the sides back or let them fall around my face.
Sometimes though, if I'm using second day hair or if something comes up and I'm not able to plan my hair in advance, I'll do a nice little chignon or low set roll at the back of my neck, often in conjunction with a faux bang roll in the front instead. Just as one picks their hats with their event or destination in mind, so too do you want to opt for a hairstyle that works for what you have ahead of you. If in doubt, a classic bun or chignon (if your hair is long enough to create one) without pieces sticking out, is an elegant option for most any occasion.”
How do you store your vintage hats, do you take any special precautions?
Tip Eleven: Store vintage hats
in tissue paper and hat boxes
If I'm planning on storing a hat (or hats) for a long time between uses or if I'm moving, I'll be sure to pack it securely in archival (acid free) tissue paper and to stuff the hat with tissue, if needed, to help it maintain its shape.
Vintage hat boxes are a great option, too, but they can be hard to find in some areas (depending on where you live) and often command as much - or more! - than vintage hats themselves, so this might not be the most cost effective option for everyone.
No matter where you put your hats, try to keep them out of direct sunlight, away from bugs and critters (be it family pets or uninvited vermin), extreme temperatures, excess moisture, harsh fumes, and curious children who may have a hankering to play dress up with your prized vintage hat collection.
Tip Twelve: Try not to wear
hair products that may stain
or discolor your vintage hats
If well cared for and properly stored, many vintage hats should continue to hold up well for decades more to come, even if you wear them sometimes (speaking of which, you may want to avoid using strong hair care products, soaps, and perfumes on your hair and skin when wearing a vintage hat, least these substances, or the residue from them, damage materials such as delicate silk, velvet or satin).”
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